elysian: greece

COLOSSUS OF RHODES: AN ANCIENT WANDER

00:30:00

One of the most beautiful medieval cities in Greece is Monemvasia (the name derives from the words mone and emvassia meaning single entrance). Monemvasia is built on a rock 200m high, 1500m long and 600m wide. Its entrance is a bridge connecting the rock to the mainland. The town was constructed this way to avoid enemy attacks. Founded by the Lakedemons in the 6th century AD, Monemvasia was an important town, part of the Byzantine Empire. The town’s geographically strategic position made it an ideal base for military operations. Later it passed under Venetian (1463-1540 and 1690-1715) and Ottoman occupation (1540-1690 and 1715-1821). In 1821, the fortress was the first to be liberated during the Greek War of Independence.

There are many things to admire in Monemvasia. The architecture of the houses is a mix of local, Venetian and Ottoman style. Today most of the old mansions have been converted into guesthouses and boutique hotels. The visitor may explore the Upper Town that accommodated the first residents, the byzantine churches and the Muslim Shrine (now housing the Archaeological Collection of the city). Don’t forget to taste the culinary delights and of course the famous “Monemvasian Wine’’ (or “Malvasia’’ for the west). You can wander around the narrow, cobbled streets and appreciate the amazing view from different spots.

Monemvasia is the birthplace of the great poet Yannis Ritsos (1909-1990). He was born in 1909 and he left a wide range of poems, plays, etc. Ritsos' poetry ranges from the overtly political to the personal, and it often utilizes characters from ancient Greek mythology. Tractors (1934), Epitaphios (1936), Earini Symphonia (1938) and Moonlight Sonata (1956) are among his popular works. Monemvasia was constant in his mind as in his work.

"Monovasia"

Rock. Nothing else. The wild fig tree and the ironstone.
An armed sea. No room at all for genuflection. Outside the Elkomenos Church gate a crimson in the black. The old women with their cauldrons bleaching the longest woven cloth in history suspend on rings from the forty-four Byzantine arcades. The sun a merciless friend with his lance on the walls opposite and death disinherited within this vast illumination where the dead interrupt their sleep now and then with cannon fire and rusty lampposts, going up and down on step after step carved in the rock. They strike their tinder boxes against the edge of their palms until the sparks fly. I – he said – will climb higher, above the soft continuation, stepping on the dome of the large submarine church with its lit candelabra. I with the blue bone, the red wing and the pure white teeth.

Monovasia 28.9.74

Source for the poem: www.monemvasia.gr

architecture

THE BRIDGE OF ARTA

19:00:00

The Bridge of Arta is a stone bridge that crosses the Arachtos river in the west of the city of Arta in Greece. It has been rebuilt many times over the centuries, starting with Roman or perhaps older foundations; the current bridge is probably a 17th-century Ottoman construction. From the annexation of Arta in 1881 to the outbreak of the First Balkan war in 1912, the highest point of the bridge was the border between the Ottoman Empire and the Kingdom of Greece.

According to the folk ballad "The Bridge of Arta", 45 masons and 60 apprentices, under the leadership of Head Builder, were building a bridge, but its foundations would collapse each night: "All day they were building it, and in the night it would collapse". Finally a bird with a human voice informed the head Builder that, in order for the bridge to remain standing, he sould sacrifice his wife. As she is being buried alive in the foundations of the construction, she curses the bridge to flutter like a leaf, and those who pass it to fall like leaves also. She is then reminded that her brother is abroad and might pass the bridge himself, so she changes her curses so as to become actual blessings: "As the tall mountains tremble, so shall the bridge tremble, and as the birds of the prey fall, so shall passers fall".

Apart from the physical connection of the river, this Bridge is also what connects Arta with its historical past, its living present and hopefully its future. For 2000 years, this achievement of engineering is standing as symbol of resistance against the water of the river, the occupation powers (Turks, Germans), but also resistance against the Greek bureaucracy, that during the 1930’s, recommended the demolition of the Bridge, as it was no longer considered to be operational. This legend of the Bridge of Arta and the song of this tragic female figure is what made this construction known around the world. This Bridge has always been at the epicentre of artistic production.

elysian

KALIKANTZAROI-THE GREEK GOBLINS

15:05:00

archaeology

ALIKI: A 'DIVE' INTO THE PAST

16:33:00

elysian

SAMOTHRACE: THE LAND OF THE GREAT GODS

23:04:00

Last winter the Acropolis Museum held the succesful exhibition "Samothrace: The mysteries of the Great Gods". Thousands visitors from all over the world had a perfect chance to meet a tiny windswept island in the northern Aegean through 252 exhibits which had been transferred to Athens.

In antiquity, the fame of Samothrace emanated from its mystery cult of the Great Gods, whose rites of initation protection at sea and the opportunity to became a better and more pious person in all ways. The rituals were held at right, the Sanctuary illuminated with torches, during wich initiates had to participate in a purification ceremony, to confess their greatest sins, to wear the wide, purple sash around their waist and to witness the unveiling of sacred symbols. Legend has it that the parents of Alexander the Great first met in Samothrace' s rites. The most famous artifact of the Sanctuary, a splendid dedication, is the 2.5 metre marble statue of "Nike" now known as the Winged Victory of Samothrace, dating from about 190 BC, masterpiece of Hellenistic sculpture.

Referred by mythology as island of Aeolus, Samothrace is wreathed by mount Saos, the highest mountain on the Aegean islands. According to Homer, Poseidon sat on its top to watch the Trojan war. The highest peak -1.611 meters- is called ''Fengari'' = ''moon'', because it hides the moon as the locals say. Hundreds of crystal watered streams flow from mount Saos and rush through the forests all the way to the sea.On their way, they form waterfalls and stone- basins, the so called ''vathres''. You will not be able to resist a cool, refreshing dip. It is a one- of- a- kind experience. But caution! The most famous river is also the most dangerous. As you climb higher up the mountain you' ll reach ''The Killer''- just as threatening as its name.

Samothrace with its physical and metaphysical power will lure you into its mystical ambience. One is for sure; the energy of this island will overwhelm you. Are you ready to be initiated into the world of Samothrace?